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Gear Lever extension - Sierra gearbox
Adam S-J
 
  Lots of folk have made gearshift extensions, and the job is not difficult. Here is mine, for what it is worth. The gearbox is a Sierra 5 speed.

The gear lever is bolted to the casing with 3 allen bolts (M8) which makes it easy to mount an extension directly onto the casing. It also makes it easy to mount a second lever on a fabricated plate at the distance you want from the box. To adapt the levers, you must first take the upper part of the lever off - it is bonded to the lower part by a rubber bush, and if you heat the bond with a blowtorch it will eventually come off (despite the smell of burning rubber). You then have a short lever, slightly cranked backwards, mounted on a good universal joint with a metal mounting plate - ideal.

To get reverse from your remote you will have to grind the shoulder off the right hand side of the selector of the lever you are attaching to the gearbox (the selector is the part which goes into the gearbox casing, and it is roughly "h" shaped with the prongs of the "h" pointing down and the long bit of the "h" on the left: it is the sloping seat of the "h" which prevents selection of reverse in the original installation, by contacting a ridge in the gearbox housing. Pushing down on the lever moves the shoulder below the ridge)

You don't need any travel in the rubber spring on the gearbox lever, so you can file off the two crimped shoulders on the lever which hold the spring in place and put a sturdy washer (M8, I think) on, hammer it down to compress the rubber and then tack weld it in place.

Your new extension lever doesn't have a thread for a gearknob. You can tap one, or you can cut the top of the old gear lever off (the bit you removed at first) and weld it on.

Most extensions I have seen have used a lug welded on to both levers with a rod between the two, and I can't argue with that. I used a flat piece of 25mm by 3mm steel because it seemed to me that there is a lot of twisting force applied to the extension (Mick Banks uses a rod, but told me it has broken in use). Take your pick.

You can get the original reverse inhibitor to work perfectly - leave the selector prongs on your extension lever and make a duplicate of the ridge which is in the gearbox casing - e.g. a bit of 3mm steel bent and bolted to the right hand mounting bolt. You will have to experiment on the clearances for this because they are not necessarily going to be indentical to the original ones.
 
 
photo of the whole lot in place.