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Questions and Answers (Year 2000)
  
 
Questions sent in to the site which have found answers. Hope they may be of some help.
  
Clutch cables
----- Original Message ----- From:Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 4:11 PM Subject: This weeks problem! > Hello again Adam, > > Thanks for the brake info. This weeks problem!!!!! > > I have used the Escort pedal box suitably modified. I can use the existing > clutch cable but its about 300mm to short. I can get one made up for about > £30-£35 but can I use one from something else (with the same ends) like a > Cortina? I have been to my local motor factors but they can only make direct > comparisons and they all seem to keep a small stock. > > I'm getting there slowly, I've been up the drive under power but I wish this > ****ing weather would clear up. > > Thanks in advance. > > Andy Mynett. (961)
Hi. I've not had this problem - my cable (new, but Escort) is plenty long enough. Take the old one to the factors and if it has the same ends, then it will fit. I would think (I am pretty sure) that Cortina / Sierra cables have the same ends as Escort ones because I have a Sierra gearbox and it has the same clutch release arm as the Escort one. Adam
Brake Master cylinder
----- Original Message ----- From:Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 8:50 PM Subject: Escort Brakes > Hello again. I mailed you last month about the help you gave for the Escort > wiring/hazard switch. Well, it worked (more or less). Many thanks. > > NEXT PROBLEM!!!!! > > I'm using the Escort brake system. I've ditched the servo, but am using the > master cylinder with all new pipes, Capri 2.8 vented discs and calipers and > the BIG drums at the back. > The problem I have is attaching the MCyl to the system. I have a rod from the > pedal to the piston, but I have three outlets from the Master cylinder. Two > on the side, both with approx. 1mm hole to the tandem pistons about 75mm > apart, and one below the second outlet underneath but only about .5mm dia. l > need to know how to connect up these outlets to the system. I know the two > bigger pipes go to each split circuit, but what about the third smaller hole? > Is this an air valve or what? The cylinder is a Girling 746602209098 one. > > I've mailed Ian Grey at Stuart Taylor but had no reply. > > Thanks in anticipation. > > Andy Mynett. No. 961

The original m/cylinder had three holes because the rear brake circuit only ran off one line - the pipe went into one rear cylinder and then out again to the other, with only one bleed valve on the rear axle. The front circuit had two pipes from the m/cylinder. This seems to explain your problem. The smaller size of the single hole is probably to do with limiting the pressure to the rear brakes. Make sure the cylinder is ok inside! If it is old, there is bound to be rust on the bore. I used a Mk3 Escort cylinder, which has 4 outlets, and used separate pipes for each rear cylinder. This gives you a proper split system linking front left to rear right and vice versa. Rear brakes only are not a safe bet if the front system fails. Adam. PS - glad the hazard lights worked.
Plan dimensions
----- Original Message ----- From: Mervyn Lake To: asj@learnfree.co.uk Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 3:08 PM Could you please help? What is the correct measurement across the front of C, is it 34.4" as page44 or 34" as page 45. also, internal measurement between J1andJ2 where they join LC. thank you Mervyn Lake

Mervyn: working from the old (first) edition of the book, the length of C is given on page 42 as 32.4 inches / 823mm. This is the same on page 45 where the diagram shows the length of the back of C. The diagram on page 44 shows the overall outside width of the chassis measured at the front of C, i.e. it includes the width of the D1 and D2. The correct width of C across its front is whatever fits when you have D1 and D2 in the right place and the outside measurement shown on page 44 is correct. External measurement between J1 and J2 (easier to fix than the internal) should be 582mm minus an allowance of say 4mm for the weld at each side. Look at the diagram at the bottom of page 47, because the exact measurement depends on how you make LC. Best to follow this diagram as closely as possible. As to FU1 and FU2, if you haven't put them in yet then don't - have a look at the Help page on the website - many people have had to remove these two tubes, including me, to line up the top wishbones properly. On my chassis I found that the bottom ends of the FU tubes about level with the outside of F1 / F2 but the tops ends were well inside the outer edge of J1 and J2. Hope this helps Adam
Hazard switch
----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 10:49 PM Subject: Escort Wiring. > I have been struggling with a couple of things on my Locost ( well couple of > things at once) All concerning the Escort wiring. I bought a Hazard switch > from Europa and have been struggling with the connections. I've blown at > least 10 fuses and was on the point of asking my local Autoelectrician for > advice, for which he wants paying. I've just logged on to this site with a > view to posting a 'HELP' message and voila there it was!!!! > > Thanks for a tremendous site and club. My Locost is nearly on the roar, I'm > compiling a report and will send it in to the mag shortly. > > Thanks again. > > Andy Mynett

Andy - that's really encouraging for me, because I spent literally weeks doing my wiring. Did the hazard switch work? If it did I and I hope so) you were very lucky to have logged on a matter of days after I wrote the article. Adam
Crossflow dimensions
----- Original Message ----- From: jonathan king To: asj@learnfree.co.uk Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:02 PM Subject: chassis question Adam, I would be grateful if someone could confirm the distance between F1 and G1 along tube C for a 1600 crossflow. Is it 5 inchs ?(127mm). Do you know or could you put me in touch with someone who does ?. Excellent to see a central point for information on the web. this site will be invaluable to me in the coming months. yours in anticipation... Jonathan King.

Jonathan, Thanks for the message. Please do take a second opinion, but: the 1600 xflow is the same in all dimensions to the 1300 (or 1100); I have fitted my 1300 engine successfully using the 7" distance shown on page 45. The only problems I found in fitting the engine were, that you have to take off the oil pump, the alternator mounting and possibly both manifolds if you want to drop the chassis over the top of the engine. I ended up making an engine crane, which means I can drop the engine into the chassis - much easier. There are questions of clearance between the starter motor and tube G1, and the clutch release housing and G2. If you still have your chassis on the building board, I would suggest a trial fitting of the engine to get an idea of whether everything is going to work out. If you would like a definitive answer, since I am not an expert and my car is not on the road yet, I would suggest you contact Martin Keenan of MK Engineering on 01709 815740. I have found during the 18 months or so that my build has been under way that I have had to undo and redo quite a lot of things..... Adam SJ